Originally posted on July 6, 2012 by Canicus

Naples: Museo Nationale Archeologico

Today I had planned on going to Paestum, but I hadn’t figured out exactly how to get there. I suppose for 250 euros I could have taken the packaged tour, but that didn’t seem to make sense to me. So I visited the Museo Nationale Archeologico in Naples (which had been on the schedule for tomorrow) instead.

Note that the photo journal is rated XXX for nudity and explicit sex. Minors under 18 should view with eyes closed.

The museum dates back to the 16th century, when the Kings of Naples had archeological treasures brought to their palace from places like Herculaneum and Pompeii. They were primarily interested in collecting artworks (remember this is the Italian Renaissance) so most of the fine art from those cities ended up here. Some ended up elsewhere in Europe, as the kings from time to time would make presents of some art works to visiting monarchs. Conversely, some other works (such as from the baths of Caracalla in Rome) ended up here as well.

The discovery of Herculaneum occurred when a farmer was digging a well and hit the mosaic floor of the amphitheater. Remember, this was over 60 feet down through solid volcanic rock that covered the city. The well, quite literally became a mining project. Tunnels were dug and statuary were brought up for the king’s collection. The engineer who supervised the mining did make some contribution to archeology by mapping the ruins he explored in his tunnels. He was not particularly interested in “junk;” he was after the fine artwork.

Over the centuries, archeologists have become far more “scientific” and interested in even the junk – and where it was located.

I hope I have figured out how to get to Paestum. I have a couple of railroad tickets which are supposed to get me there and back. Paestum is a major archeological site, but hasn’t become one of the top tourist must-see places.

Incidentally, if you are interested in visiting Herculaneum and Pompeii, I suggest you do Herculaneum first. A ticket can be bought there for both places (and some others) and the lines are virtually non-existent. Buying the ticket at Pompeii involves long lines.

Canicus Modius